As skin-care ingredients go, adapalene (like the popular over-the-counter option Differin) and its prescription cousin tretinoin have a lot in common. Both are retinoids—vitamin A derivatives that are used to smooth lines and can be a solid addition to a skincare routine to fight acne—and get a lot of love on social media from dermatologists and acne-prone consumers alike.
But they’re not exactly the same, and the main differences between adapalene and tretinoin may make one a better option for your specific needs. We asked dermatologists to shed light on the unique traits of each—and the factors that can affect whether adapalene or tretinoin is better for you.
Meet the experts:Toral Vaidya, MD, is a dermatologist at Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery in New York City. Jenny Liu, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Carmen Castilla, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group.
What is tretinoin?
As mentioned, tretinoin is a type of retinoid, meaning it’s an ingredient that’s derived from vitamin A. As far as uses go, tretinoin has range, as dermatologists often recommend it to “treat acne, prevent acne, improve skin discoloration, and reduce fine lines,” according to Toral Vaidya, MD, a dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City.
Benefits of tretinoin
- Promotes skin cell turnover
- Unclogs pores
- Boosts collagen production
- Evens skin tone and texture
“On a cellular level, it works by promoting skin cells to turnover at a faster rate,” says Dr. Vaidya. “This process helps prevent the formation of clogged pores, boost collagen, and even out skin tone and texture.”
The catch is that tretinoin use also comes with potential side effects. “The most common side effects I see from tretinoin relate to skin irritation,” says Dr. Vaidya. “This includes possible redness, dryness, and peeling, and this happens especially in the initial weeks of starting the treatment.”
The following can help minimize the side effects of tretinoin for those who are new to the ingredient, according to Dr. Vaidya:
- Use it two to three times per week at first, increasing the frequency over time as your skin adjusts
- Use the proper dose, which is a pea-size amount for your entire face
- Limit simultaneous use of other potentially irritating ingredients, like vitamin C or exfoliating acids
- Layer it with a bland moisturizer
What is adapalene?
Like tretinoin, adapalene is a topical retinoid. “It works by promoting cell turnover, which helps to prevent pores from clogging and reduces inflammation,” says Minneapolis-based dermatologist Jenny Liu, MD. “This action makes it effective not only for treating active acne but also for preventing new breakouts.” Sound familiar?
Adapalene’s additional benefits echo those of tretinoin.
Benefits of adapalene
- Improves skin texture and tone
- Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
“Adapalene has been shown to improve skin texture and tone, and it can help with the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and accelerate skin cell renewal,” says Dr. Liu.
Adapalene’s potential downsides look similar to tretinoin’s. “The common side effects of adapalene include dryness, redness, and peeling of the skin, particularly during the initial weeks of use,” Dr. Liu says. “Some users may also experience itching or burning sensations.”
With both adapalene and tretinoin, starting with the lowest possible concentration and increasing gradually can help prevent irritation, says Carmen Castilla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Retinoid Acne Treatment
Adapalene vs. tretinoin: What’s the difference?
While tretinoin and adapalene have a lot in common, four main factors distinguish them from each other.
Strength
While adapalene and tretinoin both work by promoting skin cell turnover, they interact with your skin slightly differently, according to Dr. Vaidya. “Tretinoin and adapalene bind to slightly different retinoic acid receptors in the skin,” she says. “In particular, adapalene more selectively binds to retinoic acid receptors in the skin,” she says.
Dr. Castilla adds that “since tretinoin binds to more skin receptors than adapalene, it could be considered ‘stronger,’” and, therefore, more likely to cause side effects. That doesn’t mean that tretinoin is universally more effective, since using tretinoin inconsistently due to irritation can be less effective than using adapalene consistently, Dr. Castilla points out.
The American Academy of Dermatology’s 2024 guidelines of care for acne refer to topical retinoids as “the cornerstone of acne treatment,” without stating that one type is more effective than another. “Existing comparative effectiveness data do not suggest superiority of one topical retinoid against another, with efficacy and tolerability differing by specific concentrations and formulations,” it reads.
Prescription requirements
Adapalene beats out tretinoin when it comes to accessibility. “Tretinoin is a prescription treatment, whereas adapalene is available over the counter in the United States,” says Dr. Vaidya. While adapalene once required a prescription, the FDA gave the first OTC approval to an adapalene treatment in 2016. So, if you’d prefer to purchase an acne treatment on a whim rather than speaking with a dermatologist and looking into insurance coverage, adapalene will be the better option.
Concentration
Adapalene is available in 0.1 percent concentration over the counter or 0.3 percent by prescription, but tretinoin comes in a wider range of concentrations, according to Dr. Castilla.
Additionally, tretinoin is more versatile when it comes to the type of formula. “Adapalene only comes in one vehicle—a gel—while tretinoin comes in creams, lotions, and gels,” Dr. Castilla adds. “The choice of vehicle can influence prescribing decisions.”
What the studies say
If you’re interested in anti-aging benefits more-so than acne-fighting effects, you may find tretinoin more appealing. “Tretinoin has also been studied for other conditions such as skin aging and sun damage beyond its effectiveness for acne,” Dr. Castilla says. A 2014 review of studies published in BMJ Clinical Evidence reported that tretinoin seems to improve fine lines from photodamage, but that its effect on deeper wrinkles was unclear.
Is adapalene or tretinoin better for skin?
In general, one option isn’t inherently better than the other, as they both have their pros and cons. “The choice between tretinoin and adapalene often depends on individual patient factors such as skin type, tolerance to side effects, previous use of retinoid, and specific acne severity,” says Dr. Castilla.
In some cases, neither route is suitable. For example, most experts recommend against using tretinoin or adapalene during pregnancy.
To simplify the choice, adapalene can be ideal if you have dry, sensitive skin or are new to retinoids, while tretinoin is the more proven option if you prioritize added cosmetic benefits beyond fighting acne, says Dr. Castilla.
Ultimately, there’s no need to come to the decision without outside input. A dermatologist can talk you through your options and point you to OTC products or set you up with a tretinoin prescription depending on where you both land.
